Tag Archives: Sweden

Nearly Abandonned on a rock

21st July – After a bit of scrapping I was able to remove the black which was actually melted plastic not burnt fiberglass. But you could still see the ring of the BBQ in darkened fiberglass. But without the black it wasn’t so noticeable. Still very frustrating through. We had used the BBQ in exactly the same way many times – so not sure what caused it. So Cobb BBQ owners be warned!

WP_20150721_10_18_33_Pro_editedAlthough we had moored there before, we had never explored the main Island of Rodloga. The main harbour was further round the island, so we jumped in the dinghy to explore and found a gem of a hamlet. Traditional red houses surrounding a rocky bay with one small pier for dinghies. WP_20150721_10_07_02_ProOnce ashore we followed a narrow path round the wooden houses that appeared to be nestled amongst outcrops of rock to a very well stocked shop – the basics and a delicatessen. It even had Duchies Originals, plus Digestive biscuits….. it is amazing what you value when living abroad!

By now we were virtually the last boat to leave. So with just the 2 of us it would be interesting as the wind was blowing her off. The challenge was to remove all the lines whilst holding the boat and get back onboard. I held the boat on a short rope whilst Mags clambered around the rock and removed the stone hooks and warps. She then held the short rope and I got back on board. Just as I did, there was a big gust of wind. I rushed back to the engine controls as Mags thought she was about to start water skiing from the bow. Thankfully I was able to bring boat close enough (after some helpful encouragement from Mags) for her to get on board. So I just avoided leaving her stranded on the rock!

The wind was bang on the nose so we decided to motor sail down the channel to our next harbour. The anchorage at Lokoa was hidden behind an intricate rock strewn entrance. The rocks of the bay were already lined with boats so we decided to anchor in the centre of the bay.

Finally Proof that she is Mad


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Mags is the red spot between the 2 buoys

20th July – We awoke to the steady drumming of rain on the hatch, and I was just contemplating turning over when Mags was up and about with swim suit in hand. The water temperature wasn’t exactly hot…a chilly 16.6C. Anything below 22C isn’t even an option for me. It clearly was cold judging by the expletives that were uttered on entering the water. I assumed it would be a quick dip then out again, next thing I saw was her doing laps of some distant buoys….. quite bonkers.

The rain passed and the sun came out – there was a gentle breeze and we wound our way through the rocks. There was a marked difference in the scenery, the islands became smaller and less inhabited. With only 14nm to Rodloga it didn’t matter that we were pootling along.

In the distance there was a very dark ominous cloud, we were still enjoying the sunshine but it was getting closer – then the wind died it was clearly being sucked into the weather system. It wasn’t long before we heard the rumble of thunder. We took down the sails as there are always severe down drafts under thunder clouds. We also put the handheld gps and mobile phones in the oven – this should hopefully protect them if we were stuck by lightening. With the engine on we would reach our destination faster and I would rather play lightening roulette with other boats around rather than being out on our own – is that uncharitable of me? The storm was 20 miles away, then it was 8 miles away it was getting closer, then the rain started, but thankfully the storm just past behind us and we emerged into the sunshine and we entered the fairly straight forward Rodloga natural harbour.

WP_20150720_17_53_37_ProWe had been here the year before with the Baltic Charter and we ended up in exactly the same spot. There was quite strong cross wind so we were quite pleased to have someone ashore take the lines. Mags set off like a mountain goat round the rock banging stone hooks into various crevices and with a rope from our stern to the shore we could brace her against the cross wind.

The evening skies cleared and the harbour was bathed in glorious sun, which really brought the red colour alive of the traditional houses on the main island.

WP_20150721_10_46_18_Pro_editedIt was soon time to fire up the Cobb BBQ which is designed not to get hot so you can put it on the deck. After dinner in the cockpit it was time to clean it. To my horror it was stuck the deck. The bottom plastic had melted to the deck. After quite a force I was able to remove it, which revealed a great big black circle and burnt fiberglass. There were only 2 reasons to be thankful. Firstly it was on the locker lid, so worst case we could replace the locker lid and we were able to remove the BBQ – WP_20150720_21_57_31_ProI suppose it could have been a lot worse – we weren’t happy though. We have used our BBQ many times before on the deck and never once had this problem. We banished the offending item ashore to cool down.

Summer Cottage Spotting

19th July

It wasn’t quite the sun kissed weather we were hoping for this holiday as we left marina kitted up in our oilies. The weather forecast was 14-20 knots with the risk of gust over 20 knots being 73%! Amazing the level of accuracy 73% … if only it was correct….as it was gusting over 30 knots regularly, though technically they were correct. The Swedish weather forecaster clearly don’t feel the need for any more detail above 20 knots.

We sailed along the main ferry route into Stockholm though in the opposite direction making our way out to the outer archipelago. You might be imagining a massive boring wide channel, but no, the contrary was true, a pretty route with islands and very narrow passages. Quite impressive that the ferries weave their way through undaunted.

P1070306_editedWith the wind behind us and just the yankee set, we had a lovely sail through the islands. Along the route you get the ideal opportunity to look at all the drop dead gorgeous waterside properties. Initially main homes but as you get further away from Stockholm they are summer cottages – though some are mansions but some are no more than a hut on a rock…. Or in this case a very attractive hut.

We dropped our anchor in the tranquil deep bay on the island of Sjalbottna – with high rocks overlooked by some lovely summer cottages. The one in the banner picture had a buoy for a large boat, a sauna by the waters edge, a beach and the house on the cliff over looking the bay…  that would suit us perfectly. The clouds parted and the sun came out, so we finished the day with  dinner in the cockpit wearing shorts

The Floating Ocado Delivery

18th July

The car was full to the gunnels with all sorts of boat stuff which we had been gathering in the house. I am a regular shopper at West Marine in Seattle – so amongst our boat goodies was a second anchor which I am sure must have raised a few eyebrows in American Security. We were taking the overnight ferry from Turku to Stockholm – which is a beautiful crossing through the Turku and Stockholm Archipelagos and the Aland Islands.

We had planned to sail that day – but both of us were shattered after numerous drunks decided to argue/ yodel outside our cabin on the ferry – plus it was raining and there was thunder. Neither of which made the idea of a sail very appealing. So we decided to stay put and chill- after all it was a holiday. We provisioned the boat and found the local chandlery ( as clearly we didn’t have enough boat stuff), and I spent the rest of the afternoon making up some permanent mooring lines.

We emptied the car – only to fill it up again – as Carra had acted as a big waterborne Ocado Van from the UK and every spare space had been crammed with everything from bottles of wine through to washing liquid – all at a fraction of the price of Finland.

First onboard Team SCA

Sun 28th June

The lego SCA boat
The lego SCA boat

WP_20150628_13_02_41_ProWith all the racing over, the boats were going to be opened to the public and we had a plan of action to make sure we would get onboard Team SCA. So we got the ferry over at 0830 over to the Race village and there was no security – so we were practically the first in the village and first in the queue for visiting the boats. Several people tried to queue jump and Mags gave them her fiercest teacher’s stare and some firm advice as to where the back of the queue was. (Please note that no children were harmed in this process – though some came close!).

We were first onto Team SCA – which was great because we actually got longer than other groups and it was before they were jaded. It was very well done with each boat having 5 on at a time and a member of the crew.

The coffee grinders from where you can control al the winches
The coffee grinders from where you can control al the winches

WP_20150628_09_17_21_Pro Sally (who was a driver, trimmer and tactician for the in port races ) was our guide and we asked her lots of questions. She explained the workings of the deck and the winches. The size of the winches and the weight of the sail packs that they regularly moved makes you realise how physical the race must be.WP_20150628_09_25_14_Pro

Sally describes life below decks
Sally describes life below decks

Then she took us down below. The first thing you notice is how dark it is down below as all the surfaces are the matt black of the carbon fibre that it is constructed from and then the smell…. Even though it has been scrubbed.

The nav station
The nav station

Below is a mixture of the very high tech electronics and very basic systems, all of which are exposed for easy maintenance. Being on board was such a highlight and we are still buzzing from the experience. DSC_0012Today was our day to explore the village which is very well laid out and it is clear by its construction it is a very slick operation as it is designed to be moved easily from port to port. The containers give you a clue as to how it packs down, even the race helicopter fits into one. The village had 3 excellent exhibitions. One is about the legends of former races and where are they today and it tells the story of all former boats and all the crews. I have had 2 friends that have done the Whitbread as it was called then and it was great to see their names up: Sarah Davies and Nick Bate.

The Galley on Team SCA
The Galley on Team SCA

The second was a dome with different films showing about the history of the race. Originally there were supposed to be 8 teams and so 8 boats were made but the 8th failed to raise all the sponsorship necessary to enter so they have cut one boat in half from bow to stern and so you can see all the systems, which is fascinating.WP_20150628_09_26_15_Pro All too soon it was time to leave the Race Village – we felt sad to leave as we had followed the highs and lows of the team ( from the comfort of our house) culminating with being part of their final stop over. I cant begin to imagine what it must be like for Team SCA when they leave on the 1st July having been together for 2 years and having completed such a challenging race……… I just hope there are women in the next VOR.

The Final In Port Race

Sat 27th Jun

Bizarrely the ferry didn’t start running til an hour after the village opened and more importantly it would mean that we would miss the crew parade to the boats. So we went in via the main entrance – and bumped into the Crown Princess Victoria of Sweden and Godmother to Team SCA’s boat….. good to see that we aren’t the only ones to have a boat Godmother!

A quick stop at the SCA stand and we picked up some more Team SCA freebie’s this time some sun visors.

It was clear that today there were going to be a lot more people and the crowds were definitely turning more magenta. The Team SCA shop was doing a roaring trade which at one point meant they had to have a queue just to get into the shop.

We found a place opposite the boats and waited for the crew to arrive in the team parade. By now the crowds so several people deep, I happened to be standing next to a friend of Libby’s which was nice to get a bit more detail about the behind the scenes activities. The crew arrived, Kyle – Carolijn son had clearly become accustomed to the crowds and was happily waving at everyone!

The crews had a few additions to their ranks: Mapfre had the former Juan Carlos King of Spain and Team SCA Princess Victoria and her body guards.

DSC_0128Once on board, boats left in order to their boat songs and we headed down to find a place on the grandstand. At the beginning of the day it looked like there would be no race, as only 4 knots of wind had been predicted – but despite it being incredible light there was enough wind to get the boats moving. The boats sailed passed the stand and Brunel did a crowd pleasing sail past but most motored to further down river to put up their sails.

The race was electric and we watched it over the large screen as the race course was further out into the harbour. Every time SCA did a great move- be it the start or rounding a mark the magenta crowd roared with appreciation. At one point Liz was up the mast trying to flick the top battens over as they were bent the wrong way and you could feel the crowd pushing with her. By the last leg Brunel had secured a comfortable lead followed by Team SCA and then Mapfre gave Alvimedic a lesson in match racing.

DSC_0148The sea of Magenta went wild when the girls secure a magnificent second place which saw them climb onto the podium for a third place in the overall in port race series.

Each boat docked in reverse order of the overall results with their boat song blasting away. The girls looked (deservedly) ecstatic and there were lots of group hugs having completed the VOR. DSC_0169Once docked Dee, Sara, Libby and Elodie grabbed Sam the Skipper and threw her into the Harbour – at which point Sam started doing synchronised swimming (apparently a sport from her school days) to the rest of ‘Wake me Up when it’s all over’ their boat theme tune. She was lifted out of the water and was interviewed by the Race Village MC Jo Pickard.

DSC_0185We beetled our way thought the crowd and found a spot near the presentation stage – close enough to be able to see some action but safe enough from the champagne that gets liberally sprayed for each prize. Team SCA were up twice – once for the second place in the in Port Race and once for the Magnus Olsson Award for their win of leg 8 in recognition of his favorite saying – Never Give Up – and they were worthy winners.

DSC_0379Dinner was far more successful and we discover a fantastic restaurant – and we treated ourselves to the tasting menu – 8 courses later we rolled home not able to eat another mouthful.

Our Magenta Weekend

Friday 25th

Ok so not strictly our adventures in Carra – but it was in Sweden and was very boaty – so in our minds that counts…..

From the moment we stepped off the plane in Gothenburg, it was clear that the weekend was going to be a magenta (not pink) one as we were greeting by a 5m tall picture of Abby from Team SCA. We detoured via the hotel which was a converted ship, to leave our luggage before getting the ferry across the river to Race Village. Both of us felt excited to be seeing the boats for real as opposed on a computer screen, as we had been following the race every morning and night for the last 9 months.

DSC_0146All seven identical boats were lined up in order of finish in the Volvo Ocean Race (VOR). Soon the shore crew arrived and off came the mail sail cover revealing the massive mainsail whose worn and faded appearance gave a hint of the 40000 miles it had seen to this point. Slowly the familiar faces of the crew came down to the dock, having seen them every day for months you felt you knew them – albeit in electronic stalker sort of way.

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DSC_0093Today was the ProAm race in the river and with a good breeze and the sun shining – we were in for some spectacular sailing. They weren’t actually racing but sailing up and down the river alongside the Race village and from the grand stand we had a superb view. The footage on the computer gives you no idea how big these racing machines are – and in a relatively steady breeze of about 15 knots – these boats just accelerated through the water with their J1s set. Some were taking it easy with their J2 deployed.

DSC_0084Whilst we were in the stand Mags was asked if she was part of the crew of Team SCA – when we were sailing round Britain she was asked if she was Ellen MacArthur…. Clearly there is something she is not telling me!

DSC_0054After about an hour they returned to the dock and their very lucky guests left. By now there was a definite magenta tinge to the village and it was clear that Team SCA where in their home port. Whilst you weren’t allowed on the dock, the boats were no more than 10m from the public walk way and with limited crowds because it wasn’t the weekend it was easy to get some good photos.

DSC_0012We sussed out the village and Mags went on a mission to get various freebies for friends that weren’t able to attend: which included calendars, jigsaws, pins, flags, and stickers. Also we discovered the stand which had free ice cream- we were a frequent visitor to that one!

DSC_0141Dinner was less successful, it ranks as the worse meal in terms of service we have ever had – having to wait 2 hours for our meal and given that the starter was nachos …. Needless to say I refused to pay the slightly discounted bill the head waiter offered us – and we left paying a lot less than they had the cheek to ask for.

Tied to a Rock

21st June

The procession of boats that had left on Friday were clearly all returning back to their marinas and we seemed to be the only ones going against the flow. Hopefully this would mean that our next stop would be fairly empty. We motored into a gentle breeze and about 2 hours after leaving Sandon we arrived at Trasko Stora. It had several places to moor against the rock and if we chickened out we could always anchor in the middle.

WP_20150621_14_00_38_Pro_editedFirst we needed to decide where to go, there was one spot which looked perfect which had recently been vacated by a motor boat. Our first attempt was less successful and we had to pull away just about 2m from the rock as I hadn’t quite judged that the wind would blow our bow off – so we reversed, up came the anchor and we started the process again – at least it kept the locals entertained. The second time around we were successful and Mags stepped onto the steep rocky shore with a line which she tied to a tree and she then  hammered  a stone hook into a crevice to secure the second line. We feel like we have now passed the Swedish initiation test – mooring onto a rock.

It was a tranquil spot and the sun came out and was actually hot enough for shorts. After lunch we tried to explore the Island but without crampons we weren’t going to get very far. So we retreated to the boat, just as a single hander sailed into the anchorage and moored on the rock next to us effortlessly… it was very impressive. It will be a while before we are that proficient – if ever!

WP_20150621_19_28_07_ProMags had her usual afternoon zizz and I cleaned the boat. I went ashore to take some photos and ended up talking to the single hander – who shared his top recommendations for places to visit in the Archipelago.

Dinner in the cockpit – without the cockpit tent ( a first this year) rounded off by a beautiful evening sky.

A Floating Bastu

20th June

WP_20150620_13_11_37_ProWe awoke to the steady drumming of rain on the deck, which wasn’t conducive to going sailing. Plus there was next to no wind so it was a rather lazy start to the day, breakfast in the cockpit – 3 cheers for the cockpit tent. We watched the optimist ‘match racing’- well drifting to be precise. It is fantastic to see how the island is set up – it has a 4 little Oppies for kids of the club to sail. By lunch time the rain had stopped and finally the sun came out.

WP_20150620_13_19_53_ProWe explored the other half of the island – which was covered in blueberry bushes which will be ready for picking in about a month or so. We were just watching the world go by when the Club Captain came by to talk to us – so we now have a good understanding of how the Island functions. He also gave us some good advice –stay out of anything marked blue on the chart unless you are mooring. We have certainly landed on out feet when we picked the marina – particularly as when we put our names down on the waiting list we had no idea about the club’s island.

WP_20150620_13_31_49_ProThe Bastu or Sauna like in Finland is a great tradition. There is private one on the island but the common one is floating, which is a clever way of avoiding the building regulations which prevents any new building within 300m of the shore. Our British visitors (and Mags) will be pleased to note swimming costumes are worn in this one as it is open to all.

The mid summer pole should have gone up yesterday – but the weather was miserable so they had the ceremony today – with children singing and dancing round the pole. Where as yesterday most had stayed on their boats prior to the party – today with the better weather the club element became much more apparent as the island came to life. It was lovely just to relax on the boat after our hectic travels earlier to get to Sweden.

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