It was lovely to have friends Andy and Sharon join us from Finland and spend the weekend with us. Our first guests onboard and great to see that finally summer had arrived in the Baltic – teeshirt and shorts weather + plus enough wind to sail. The picture at the top of the page, Andy took and is the view from our boat in the marina at sunrise.
Our destination for the weekend was a little natural harbour called Ladau. We had just anchored when we noticed a man waving us away from a house – resisting the temptation to wave back – we moved the anchor to appease this unfriendly native. We were much further than the 200m required by law but we would rather have peace and quiet. Mags and Sharon went swimming off the boat a tropical 21C – though still not hot enough for me.
It was a lovely evening just chatting and laughing in the warmth of the evening sun. Some young kids of one of the neighbouring boats kept us entertained. First catching a fish, followed by a drunk father trying to kill it and filet it. Then the enterprising kids did a tour of all the boats proudly displaying their wares in a plastic bag. We even got the sales pitch in English – but it was an old couple that took pity on them and parted with some kroner.
The next morning was glorious but not a puff of wind as we set off. Fuel stops are few and far between in the archipelago and fortunately there was one close by and we were able to top up the tanks. Our gauge still showed full – yet we were able to fill up with 130 litres! We are still trying to solve the fuel tank gauge problem but I think we are going to have to replace the sender. There was still no wind and we motored back – taking it in turns to helm – as it was just too hot standing in the sun for any length of time.
We wanted to ensure we secured a place in Malma Kvarn, which is a lovely traditional harbour lined with little red houses. We were meeting Adam and Lynne, who we had met a few years ago at a talk about our trip round Britain. Adam had noticed we were in the Baltic, so had emailed and we had agreed to meet up. Getting up early meant that we actual got the best of the day – a great sail in full sun. However, within about an hour of arriving it was pouring with rain. We had invited Adam and Lynne on board for Dinner and we had a lovely evening, great company + a present of British teabags – they clearly knew how to impress Mags!
As we had to catch a flight in the evening and we had a 5 hour sail ahead of us– we had a 7 am start, which is obscenely early in the Baltic. Up on deck you couldn’t see more than 200m – thick pea souper…. fog. The Swedish forecast was again spectacularly missing this vital piece of info. We set off with Mags glued to the radar and fog horn in hand. Rocky passages take on a whole new meaning in the fog. The scary bridge wasn’t so scary this time around mainly as we couldn’t really see it! After about 3 hours of motoring it finally cleared and we wound our way back through islands. We came across a pair of white tailed sea eagles fishing – you cant miss them with the size of their enormous wing span and their white tail feathers.
Ostholmen is a beautiful secluded inlet and we had found a great spot anchored right in the middle. It was a glorious sunny day, so we decided to stay put and just enjoy being there. The inlet is overlooked by a cliff on which hang some very large bird boxes. These aren’t for your average blue tit as each one must be about 2 ft tall. Breakfast in the cockpit, followed by a dose of people watching as they left their moorings. It was a great day relaxing and doing boat jobs. We took the dinghy off to explore the uninhabited island of Ostholmon – yet it has a sauna! Mid afternoon the man in the Ice cream boat turned up. Top idea! Post ice cream – we scrambled up to the top of the cliff to admire the view into glistening sun. Back onboard we ate Dinner in the cockpit with the evening sun illuminating the cliff face.
- 23rd July Marcus turned up at 8am sharp to replace the gps unit. Water had got into the unit and corroded the terminals. He also replaced the wiring back to the backbone and was pleased at how easy it was to access all the wiring – one of the many benefits about a Rustler.
By 11am we were ready to leave, but there was a major decision to be made. Do we go under scary bridge or not. The short cut to our next destination would save about 1.5 hours but goes under a 20 m bridge. Our mast is 19m including aerials and there is a positive water height of 16cm – which leaves 80cm. Which might sound a lot but with the optical illusion from the cockpit it looks like you will hit it. We decide that to go for it…..
- The front boat has a crew member at the top of the mast
…..but to go slowly and don’t look up. Our confidence was somewhat lessened as a boat in front of us got to the bridge and did a dramatic U turn. Next thing we saw was him hoisting a crew member to the top of the mast with a Go Pro and pole to film it. I looked at Mags and before I could even say anything, I was told don’t even think about it.. So dear readers, the only footage you will see of scary bridge are stills from the cockpit. I did look up just as we were about to go under and my heart stopped……
Safely under – we ghosted up between the islands. Then the heavens opened and we stuck on the engine and we headed to the Island of Moja and the harbour of Kirkviken. It looked an idyllic spot with traditional red houses lining the harbour and on old church – hence the name. But alas all the rock spots were taken, the only option was to anchor. But after the third attempt trying to get the anchor to hold, we gave up and headed for Ostholmen and discovered a gem of a spot.
22nd Having been raining most of the night, it was still oilies weather as we left back through the rocky entrance following our inbound track of last night. But the rock alert doesn’t stop when you leave the natural harbours. The charts here have a worrying phrase in this part of the archipelago – “all known rocks less than 6m depth are shown”. We don’t want to be the ones to discover the unknown ones. So it is relief to make it back to the marked fairways.
We had a cracking sail beating into the wind – til the channel got too narrow to make it viable. Ever since our crossing from Germany our gps unit had not been working and we had to rely on the internal gps of the chart plotter, so our next destination was the Bullando Marina to meet up with the Raymarine dealer. Bullando is a lively marina whose close proximity to the outer archipelago makes it very popular. Last year when we were looking for marinas for Carra we had looked at it but with a 7 year waiting list it wasn’t option.
I gave the locker lid a good clean with an abrasive fibreglass cleaner which has removed a bit more of the burn mark from the BBQ, much better than it was but you can see it.
There is always a task list of things to do and tonight’s activity was to put up picture in the saloon. The west coast of Scotland can have some stunning sunsets and this picture is from where Mags grew up on the Kintyre Peninsula overlooking the Island of Cara. Cara is a Gaelic word for friend and can be spelt Cara or Carra.
21st July – After a bit of scrapping I was able to remove the black which was actually melted plastic not burnt fiberglass. But you could still see the ring of the BBQ in darkened fiberglass. But without the black it wasn’t so noticeable. Still very frustrating through. We had used the BBQ in exactly the same way many times – so not sure what caused it. So Cobb BBQ owners be warned!
Although we had moored there before, we had never explored the main Island of Rodloga. The main harbour was further round the island, so we jumped in the dinghy to explore and found a gem of a hamlet. Traditional red houses surrounding a rocky bay with one small pier for dinghies. Once ashore we followed a narrow path round the wooden houses that appeared to be nestled amongst outcrops of rock to a very well stocked shop – the basics and a delicatessen. It even had Duchies Originals, plus Digestive biscuits….. it is amazing what you value when living abroad!
By now we were virtually the last boat to leave. So with just the 2 of us it would be interesting as the wind was blowing her off. The challenge was to remove all the lines whilst holding the boat and get back onboard. I held the boat on a short rope whilst Mags clambered around the rock and removed the stone hooks and warps. She then held the short rope and I got back on board. Just as I did, there was a big gust of wind. I rushed back to the engine controls as Mags thought she was about to start water skiing from the bow. Thankfully I was able to bring boat close enough (after some helpful encouragement from Mags) for her to get on board. So I just avoided leaving her stranded on the rock!
The wind was bang on the nose so we decided to motor sail down the channel to our next harbour. The anchorage at Lokoa was hidden behind an intricate rock strewn entrance. The rocks of the bay were already lined with boats so we decided to anchor in the centre of the bay.
- Mags is the red spot between the 2 buoys
20th July – We awoke to the steady drumming of rain on the hatch, and I was just contemplating turning over when Mags was up and about with swim suit in hand. The water temperature wasn’t exactly hot…a chilly 16.6C. Anything below 22C isn’t even an option for me. It clearly was cold judging by the expletives that were uttered on entering the water. I assumed it would be a quick dip then out again, next thing I saw was her doing laps of some distant buoys….. quite bonkers.
The rain passed and the sun came out – there was a gentle breeze and we wound our way through the rocks. There was a marked difference in the scenery, the islands became smaller and less inhabited. With only 14nm to Rodloga it didn’t matter that we were pootling along.
In the distance there was a very dark ominous cloud, we were still enjoying the sunshine but it was getting closer – then the wind died it was clearly being sucked into the weather system. It wasn’t long before we heard the rumble of thunder. We took down the sails as there are always severe down drafts under thunder clouds. We also put the handheld gps and mobile phones in the oven – this should hopefully protect them if we were stuck by lightening. With the engine on we would reach our destination faster and I would rather play lightening roulette with other boats around rather than being out on our own – is that uncharitable of me? The storm was 20 miles away, then it was 8 miles away it was getting closer, then the rain started, but thankfully the storm just past behind us and we emerged into the sunshine and we entered the fairly straight forward Rodloga natural harbour.
We had been here the year before with the Baltic Charter and we ended up in exactly the same spot. There was quite strong cross wind so we were quite pleased to have someone ashore take the lines. Mags set off like a mountain goat round the rock banging stone hooks into various crevices and with a rope from our stern to the shore we could brace her against the cross wind.
The evening skies cleared and the harbour was bathed in glorious sun, which really brought the red colour alive of the traditional houses on the main island.
It was soon time to fire up the Cobb BBQ which is designed not to get hot so you can put it on the deck. After dinner in the cockpit it was time to clean it. To my horror it was stuck the deck. The bottom plastic had melted to the deck. After quite a force I was able to remove it, which revealed a great big black circle and burnt fiberglass. There were only 2 reasons to be thankful. Firstly it was on the locker lid, so worst case we could replace the locker lid and we were able to remove the BBQ – I suppose it could have been a lot worse – we weren’t happy though. We have used our BBQ many times before on the deck and never once had this problem. We banished the offending item ashore to cool down.
It wasn’t quite the sun kissed weather we were hoping for this holiday as we left marina kitted up in our oilies. The weather forecast was 14-20 knots with the risk of gust over 20 knots being 73%! Amazing the level of accuracy 73% … if only it was correct….as it was gusting over 30 knots regularly, though technically they were correct. The Swedish weather forecaster clearly don’t feel the need for any more detail above 20 knots.
We sailed along the main ferry route into Stockholm though in the opposite direction making our way out to the outer archipelago. You might be imagining a massive boring wide channel, but no, the contrary was true, a pretty route with islands and very narrow passages. Quite impressive that the ferries weave their way through undaunted.
With the wind behind us and just the yankee set, we had a lovely sail through the islands. Along the route you get the ideal opportunity to look at all the drop dead gorgeous waterside properties. Initially main homes but as you get further away from Stockholm they are summer cottages – though some are mansions but some are no more than a hut on a rock…. Or in this case a very attractive hut.
We dropped our anchor in the tranquil deep bay on the island of Sjalbottna – with high rocks overlooked by some lovely summer cottages. The one in the banner picture had a buoy for a large boat, a sauna by the waters edge, a beach and the house on the cliff over looking the bay… that would suit us perfectly. The clouds parted and the sun came out, so we finished the day with dinner in the cockpit wearing shorts
The lack of tides mean that the Baltic opens up many new types of mooring which are made easier with having the right set up. Whilst it will take a while before we pass as natives – having the right kit at least makes it easier. We bought our is Sweden as the kit is readily available and possible the one thing that is actually cheaper than the UK.
Bow Ladders – given that most moorings either in marinas or tying up to a rock mean that you come in bows to – the only way to get off safely is by using bow ladders. This prevents sprained ankles and makes it a very easy process. But it doesn’t stop the heart failure as you bring your boat within a meter of solid granite. Ours are made by Batsystem.
Mooring Hook – in many locations your stern is tied to a buoy. There are 2 types of hook. One which is just an open hook – which works as long as the hook is under tension – which is more difficult to handle if you are short handed. The other has a safety catch to lock it onto the buoy.
Stone Hooks and Hammer – If you are tying up to a rock then these get hammered into the cracks to give you a point to tie up to, as trees aren’t always in the right place.
Self Locking Safety Hook – this is used around trees and allows you quickly tie up to a tree. The hook is on the end of the rope and you hook it back on the rope. The hook doesn’t open when under pressure and needs to be bent 120 degrees to open it up.
Stern Anchor – All the locals use a bruce anchor, but the next question is what size should you get? We have a 20kg anchor with 2 m of 10mm chain for 42ft boat. The size is also determined by what you can handle without giving yourself a hernia.
Anchoring Davit – whilst this isn’t essential – it certainly saves our backs and the gel coat. Ours is made by NOA. It folds down when in harbour.
Anchor chain holder – a convenience tube to store the chain
Ankarolina – very useful for stern anchoring or when mooring to a buoy when short handed. When it is running out Mags hands it to me and I don’t have to worry about it tangling up. Likewise when bringing it up the reel makes it easy to store. Ours is 56m and 35mm width.
Rubbing strake ropes – Box moorings are very common in Denmark and Germany and boats designed for the Baltic have rubbing strakes. An alternative is to use wide rope suspended along the length of the boat. You can either buy them ready made or make them yourself.
Sweden: SeaSea, Watski,