Tag Archives: doorstepsailing

The Vikings do Glasto

The vikings had radar!

We spent a week in Copenhagen – partly because we loved it but we were hiding from some windy weather. As the 45 knots of wind whistled high above the buildings, they afforded us fantastic shelter and we bobbed about as if we were in a flat calm.

For our final day, we ventured outside Copenhagen – to Roskilde – centre of the Danish Viking world. We were surprised to find the train to Roskilde on a Sunday was packed – standing room only. Many of them were carrying rucksacks with tents attached, we didn’t think they were intent in getting in touch with their Viking roots, and were too old to be going to a scout convention. Then the realisation dawned on us… that most were wearing wellies….. a quick google search revealed we were on our way to the Danish equivalent of Glastonbury. All tickets sold out months ago.

The Viking centre was fascinating, the 5 Viking longships on display, were raised from the seabed, as they had been sunk to block navigable waterways, as a part of the defence of the area. There was a boat yard that still builds working longships, with traditional tools and methods. The harbour was full of Lonships, one of which had sailed all the way to Dublin and back.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Roskilde was the former capital of Denmark, and at its heart, an impressive Cathedral which dates back to the 12th Century. Though the simple lines seemed to be in contrast with the ornate sarcophaguses of all the former Kings and Queens of Denmark that lie in numerous chapels within.

One of the most moving, was the last King, who was a navy man, who is buried outside the Cathedral in the ground. He wanted to be buried in the soil, with a view of the sea. A simple garden surrounds his grave stone.

 

 

 

 

“There are only Gays on that Boat”

After a great visit to the UK, both enjoyable and a relief – our friend Ali’s 60th Birthday weekend was the former and seeing my mother, and that she still knows who we are, the latter. Back onboard, we headed off to Copenhagen, well that was the plan, except our path crossed the entrance of a small fortified Danish island Flakfortet and it looked enticing. So, we dropped the sails, did a handbrake turn and were soon tied up. Built to defend Copenhagen, the harbour was a former barracks, built into the hillside, with gun batteries on top. The island was surrounded by a large stone wall, creating the harbour. It was very bijoux; a tour of the island only took 20 mins. But as it was right at the entrance to Copenhagen, and perfectly placed to arrive early before others.

Result – we got the top spot in the old Nyhavn, right in the heart of the city, multicoloured old buildings lining the harbour. It was a tourist magnet but delightful early morning before they were around, in the evening, live jazz wafted over the water.

Copenhagen is such a cool city – very bike friendly and we cycled everywhere on the separate network of cycle paths, the city is full of Danish innovation in the thoughtful design of buildings and the spaces between and what they can mean for society. The student accommodation made of containers an  example of the innovation.

Favourite spots we visited were: the Danish Design Museum, the Architecture Centre, the street food market at Reffen and the parks to name just a few.

Reffen Street market

Some friends Carolyn and Karen, were visiting Copenhagen, it was great to have them on board for tea and cinnamon buns. Which turned into the evening with chilli. It was lovely to hear about their camper van adventures in Norway.

We had decided to fly a small Pride flag from our spreaders, for many reasons, but also maybe it would stop the “where is your husband comments?” Within an hour of hoisting it, a 5 or 6 year-old and her father were passing the boat. The little girl recognised the flag, and announced to her father in a loud voice “there are only Gays on that boat” – the father was embarrassed and immediate crossed the road away from us. Not only did we find his action hysterical but how wonderful that matter of fact way that young children treat homosexuality now, compare to when I was growing up.