Monthly Archives: July 2024

Guest Blog by our very able crew….Jo and Liz

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We were very excited to be joining Sam and Mags on Carra for a week. This would be the first time we have sailed in Denmark. We had caught a late flight to Copenhagen on the Monday evening. Naturally, the flight was delayed so we didn’t get to our hotel until 01.30am so we slept soundly overlooking the very pretty canal side area of Nyhavn in central Copenhagen. As ex boat owners ourselves, we knew that Sam and Mags could give us either a place or a date to meet up but not both so we expected to catch a train to wherever they had managed to moor up. It was a very straightforward journey via a couple of buses and a train to Kerteminde.

Sam was waiting for us as we got off the bus and we were soon on the lovely Carra. Dinner on board followed by an early night. We left the next morning to make our way south to Nyborg. It was a great sail and we were soon moored up in the old harbour. We went for a stroll into the town andfound an ice cream parlour that made their own waffle cone. Delicious. Friends of Sam and Mags were also moored up there so they popped over for pre dinner drinks. Just before we were about to eat a training yacht turned up and decided to raft off us. They hadn’t bothered to ask and added insult to injury by trampling across the front of the boat with their shoes on in their desperate search for food. Neither Sam nor Mags were best pleased with their behaviour.

Luckily, they had left early the next morning before us as we had a 5 hour part motor/ part sail to a very pretty anchorage just outside Svendborg. The wind direction forecast was completely wrong but we still managed a sail.  Safely anchored up, we spent the afternoon chilling before a delicious BBQ.

By now we were getting accustomed to life on board – don’t mess with Mags when she’s in the galley and let Sam tweak the sails whilst underway! We were learning to be able crew but very alert to ensuring we did things their way.

On Friday, we left our peaceful anchorage early to make our way to Faaborg. We managed to sail some of the way but we were keen to get into the harbour before the predicted storm arrived. We had made good time and were just coming along side when the harbour master requested we moved forward. No problem except the heavens opened and didn’t stop for the next three hours! However, we couldn’t really complain as this was the only real rain the whole trip. Once it had stopped, Liz and Sam had a wander around the town and found some interesting sculptures!

 

We finally managed to convince Sam and Mags to let us treat them to a meal and found a lovely local restaurant (Restaurant Heimdal) run by two gay guys. Jo had the pork casserole whilst the others had the “shooting star” open sandwich with delicious fresh fish. We also ordered three glasses of wine but they thought we meant three bottles! Luckily, this was soon rectified. Back to the boat to watch the Opening Ceremony of the Paris Olympics. It was ambitious and wonderfully bonkers but they should all be applauded given the dreadful weather!

Another short hop the next morning to the island of Lyø where Sam had found us a gorgeous spot to anchor in. The dinghy was inflated and an expedition party set of for the nearby hamlet of Bådsted.

That meant Jo could have a quiet couple of hours without disturbance. Up early again the following morning as we wanted to get a space in the old harbour of Æroskobing. It was very windy so we had a cracking downwind sail and were tied up by 10.30 before the harbour filled up.

Some yachts were more in control than others but luckily no damage done despite one couple’s determined efforts! The town is a very pretty one with art shops, restaurants, cafes and old houses. The piece de resistance was the row of colourful beach huts on the spit about ½ mile from the harbour. A late lunch at the harbourside fish stall filled us up nicely.

Our last full day was an upwind sail to Svendborg where we will catch the bus and then train to the airport on Tuesday. Wonderful sailing conditions again. Svendborg is obviously a very popular harbour in high season. We arrived before midday so we were able to go alongside but within a couple of hours, boats were rafted three deep. The old harbour nearby was full of old wooden sailing ships, testament to Svendborg’s shipbuilding history. The day was finished off with fish and chips from the fish stall on the quay. Perfect ending to the holiday.

We have never been so glad the battery ran out!

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We had wanted to make a quick getaway but annoying the ships clock had stopped. It was an unusual type of battery and Helsingsør, would the last chance to replace it for about 10 days. But the shop didn’t open til 0930 – 2 hrs later than we had planned to leave. Decision made; we would wait for the shop to open. So off to the shop with the boat purse, except there was no purse – the boat was searched with panic rising, we realised we didn’t have it. We had last used it in the street food market which had been packed with people…. and it contained 4 of our credit cards and some money. Gulp! We sprinted round to the street food market, they were cleaning it prior to opening. No one had seen it, it hadn’t been handed in. My heart fell….. We went back to where we had been sitting, no sight of it. Then Mags removed the cushions and thankfully found it down the back of the sofa – what a relief. Thank goodness for needing to buy the battery. Otherwise, we would have been in another harbour by the time we had noticed, if we had left as planned.

Very relieved, we set off not before removing some of the cards from the purse. Passing the impressive castle, that dominates the coast line –though less photogenic given one side was covered in scaffolding. The current was whisking us along and we carried it for the next hour, we saw a pod of about 4 dolphins, a rare sight for us, though they were more interested in eating than us.

 

We arrived at 12 in the busy fishing harbour of Gilleleje on the north of the island of Zeeland. Grateful that we had managed to find the last place…..or so we thought – for the next 8 hours boats kept arriving. They crammed in, rafted 4 deep/ hanging off fishing boats. It is famed for its fresh fish for sale in the fish shacks that surround the harbour. Of all the delicious fresh fish that Mags bought, we won’t be buying salted fish again …. it was inedible. Unbelievable and annoyingly (as we had written some postcards) – there was no letter box in the whole town.

Peaceful anchorage

 

We had the luxury of time to wait for the wind in the right direction, which meant we have a lovely downwind sail all the way to the Island of Sejero. Next stop was due to be Ballen on Samsø– but that was rammed full – and so we anchored outside along with 37 other boats! But it was lovely to be at anchor again – no noisy neighbours – just peace and quiet. So, lovely in fact that we spent 2 days there.

The Cherry Queen

 

Leaving from an anchorage is blissfully simple and uncomplicated.  So we slipped away at 6am to benefit from the wind as it was due to die throughout the morning. Blue skies and wind made for a cracking sail to Kerteminde.

Unbeknownst to us, it was the beginning of the 3 day cherry festival, for which the area is famous. The town was in carnival mode with stalls, musicians and the Cherry Queen. Mags won some cherries, on the human fruit machine – 3 guys selecting fruit at random. As she is allergic to them (cherries not men) I benefited.

Human fruit machine

At night the Cherry Queen and an opera singer greeted canoes carrying flashing lights along the river, in a night time paddle. Quite magical.

The next few days saw me working, proofing reading the 3rd edition of my book and Mags doing a sterling job cleaning and doing admin jobs ready for our friends! We met some new friends Sara and Thomas – and had tea and cake with them. A lady on a neighbouring boat next to us asked…. “are we alone” – Oh no I thought here we go again …. yes we said… her reply “that is so cool – I really really like that” ….yes finally a great reaction!

 

We manage to insult the Danish Nation

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Ven

We finally cast off our lines from Copenhagen, passing the harbour that I had first sailed to, at the age 17 with the Ocean Youth Club. Leaving the harbour past some key sights: the magnificent opera house with the Royal Palace opposite, the Little Mermaid – an unusually solitary figure given the tourists were still in bed.  We had to wait briefly to leave the harbour, as a massive cruise ship was docking. As we settled into our passage, Mags thankfully pointed out that we were heading back to Malmo and completely in the wrong direction… a bit embarrassing! A quick course correction and a 14nm passage to the island of Ven, motoring all the way due to a lack of wind, only the ever-present cargo ships keeping us on our toes. Ven was Swedish – so a quick change of courtesy flag was needed. Our initial place in the harbour was just by the entrance. But it was clear the swell caused by the cargo ships passing the island, would make it bouncy and unpleasant. When a boat left from a prime spot, we were quick to move, worth redoing the lines for a bit of piece of quiet. We went for a walk round a little bit of the island – but when the sky turned an ominous dark grey, our planned walk was abandoned and our pace quickened. Just arriving before the heavens opened.

Next was the port of Råå on the Swedish mainland. The harbour is built round a river, and if you are lucky you can stay in a permanent berth holders box mooring, if it is free. We were lucky, one was free and better still it was beautifully sheltered, from the expected windy weather overnight.. Råå was a much-needed admin stop, the laundry was free and a 20 min cycle through a lovely nature park to replace our Swedish gas bottle. We managed to leave the Pele sailing clothes shop financially unscathed….. it was not the sale time and no one in the right sense, would buy the clothes at full price.

Castle is top right!

Our next destination was home of Hamlet’s castle –Helsingør, all of 6 miles away – another taxing trip! Though the castle which normally dominates the landscape, could hardly be seen through gloom, it was very dreek, as the Scots would say. The 2 knots of current flowing pass the entrance, made for an interesting entry. All that training entering Yarmouth on the Isle of Wight, paying off. We arrived and I wanted to moor facing the expected windy weather, which mean parking

Helsingsør Castle

 in reverse, always interesting in a boat that really doesn’t like going backwards in a straight line. We got her in and sprung her in against the cross wind (a boating technique that looks impressive if you have never seen it before). The next door boat watched our manoeuvre, and congratulated us on it….. then added the killer line…. “Are you alone?” “yes” we said, “what, there is no one else on board with you?” The fact he was sailing single handed himself, on the same sized boat as us, made it worse. He didn’t see an issue with a single man managing but surprised that 2 women could.….. so, no the Pride flag didn’t make a blind bit of difference!

Since Malmo, we have been hopping backwards and forwards across Oresund (the sound – made famous from the Nordic Noir The Bridge). Back in Denmark it was a whole day before I realised, we were still flying the Swedish courtesy flag …opps … a big insult.

Alas poor Yorick …

We walked around the outside of the Hamlet’s Castle. Mags has the ability to remember endless Hamlet quotes, which in fairness to her, she patiently let me video them. The old buildings of the city, were ornate as might be expected of a former Royal City, and we followed a self-guided walking tour, which also paid homage to it’s ship building past, with street murals and the old dry dock converted into a maritime museum. It had a cool indoor street food market in an old shipyard warehouse – which served every type of cuisine and sofa and tables to lounge around…. We treated ourselves to Fish and Chips.

The Vikings do Glasto

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The vikings had radar!

We spent a week in Copenhagen – partly because we loved it but we were hiding from some windy weather. As the 45 knots of wind whistled high above the buildings, they afforded us fantastic shelter and we bobbed about as if we were in a flat calm.

For our final day, we ventured outside Copenhagen – to Roskilde – centre of the Danish Viking world. We were surprised to find the train to Roskilde on a Sunday was packed – standing room only. Many of them were carrying rucksacks with tents attached, we didn’t think they were intent in getting in touch with their Viking roots, and were too old to be going to a scout convention. Then the realisation dawned on us… that most were wearing wellies….. a quick google search revealed we were on our way to the Danish equivalent of Glastonbury. All tickets sold out months ago.

The Viking centre was fascinating, the 5 Viking longships on display, were raised from the seabed, as they had been sunk to block navigable waterways, as a part of the defence of the area. There was a boat yard that still builds working longships, with traditional tools and methods. The harbour was full of Lonships, one of which had sailed all the way to Dublin and back.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Roskilde was the former capital of Denmark, and at its heart, an impressive Cathedral which dates back to the 12th Century. Though the simple lines seemed to be in contrast with the ornate sarcophaguses of all the former Kings and Queens of Denmark that lie in numerous chapels within.

One of the most moving, was the last King, who was a navy man, who is buried outside the Cathedral in the ground. He wanted to be buried in the soil, with a view of the sea. A simple garden surrounds his grave stone.

 

 

 

 

“There are only Gays on that Boat”

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After a great visit to the UK, both enjoyable and a relief – our friend Ali’s 60th Birthday weekend was the former and seeing my mother, and that she still knows who we are, the latter. Back onboard, we headed off to Copenhagen, well that was the plan, except our path crossed the entrance of a small fortified Danish island Flakfortet and it looked enticing. So, we dropped the sails, did a handbrake turn and were soon tied up. Built to defend Copenhagen, the harbour was a former barracks, built into the hillside, with gun batteries on top. The island was surrounded by a large stone wall, creating the harbour. It was very bijoux; a tour of the island only took 20 mins. But as it was right at the entrance to Copenhagen, and perfectly placed to arrive early before others.

Result – we got the top spot in the old Nyhavn, right in the heart of the city, multicoloured old buildings lining the harbour. It was a tourist magnet but delightful early morning before they were around, in the evening, live jazz wafted over the water.

Copenhagen is such a cool city – very bike friendly and we cycled everywhere on the separate network of cycle paths, the city is full of Danish innovation in the thoughtful design of buildings and the spaces between and what they can mean for society. The student accommodation made of containers an  example of the innovation.

Favourite spots we visited were: the Danish Design Museum, the Architecture Centre, the street food market at Reffen and the parks to name just a few.

Reffen Street market

Some friends Carolyn and Karen, were visiting Copenhagen, it was great to have them on board for tea and cinnamon buns. Which turned into the evening with chilli. It was lovely to hear about their camper van adventures in Norway.

We had decided to fly a small Pride flag from our spreaders, for many reasons, but also maybe it would stop the “where is your husband comments?” Within an hour of hoisting it, a 5 or 6 year-old and her father were passing the boat. The little girl recognised the flag, and announced to her father in a loud voice “there are only Gays on that boat” – the father was embarrassed and immediate crossed the road away from us. Not only did we find his action hysterical but how wonderful that matter of fact way that young children treat homosexuality now, compare to when I was growing up.